PIZ CIAVAZES

First day at the Sella we explored a new route at the south face of Piz Ciavazes called "Schirata". However, we found the first pitch in very bad shape, loose blocks of all sizes and wet holds. After I downsized the ledge of the first belay by 500kg we decided to traverse into the Zeni-Verschneidung, a lovely looking dihedral. Strenuous crags, dihedrals and a roof finish led in 7 pitches to the “Gamsband”, a green ledge where many roots finish because of the changeable nature of the upper half of Piz Ciavazes.

• Summary: "Schirata" maybe needs some more “cleaning” before turning into a classic! Zeni Verschneidung turned out to be harder and more spectacular than in looks, especially the last roof is really cool climbing!
• Facts: Old and super old pitons, 3,4,5,3+,6a+,6a+,6a+,6b,5 (280m); walk down!
• Material: 15 DMM Shadow Quickdraws, small set of DMM Wallnuts, Dragon Cams size 00 to 4.
• Topo: Dolomiten Vertikal Band Nord, Lobo-Verlag
• Tip: The first pitches are a bit loose but the dihedrals and roofs are worth it!

Große Micheluzzi is big adventure! Easy start followed by 90m of traversing with some down- climbing. After the big ledge in the middle of Piz Ciavazes called “Gamsband” the route follows the obvious system of chimneys and dihedrals with fewer pitons and reduced quality of rock. Nonetheless it is worth climbing to the top of the mountain because of the beautiful view to Marmolada, Sass Pordoi and the Sella towers!

• Summary: Pleasant climbing up to the Gamsband followed by adventure and a great view!
• Facts: Many pitons, some belays are equipped with glued bolts! 5-, 6-, 4, 6-, 2, 5+, 6-, 6a+, 5, 5, 5, 5, 4+, 4+, 3+, 4+, 3+, 4+, 4, 3, 4-, 5-, 5, 5+, 5- (600m); abseil down the west ridge, walk down from the Gamsband!
• Material: 15 DMM Shadow Quickdraws, small set of DMM Wallnuts, Dragon Cams size 00 to 2
• Topo: Dolomiten Vertikal Band Nord, Lobo-Verlag
• Tip: Climb the upper part in the afternoon after 3pm as all climbers traverse along the Gamsband! Earlier you might drop loose rock right onto them.