First Alpine rock contact 2012

Sella, Piz Ciavazes Südwand.
Sella, Piz Ciavazes Südwand.

4 giorni una estate, 7a, Sass Pordoi, Sella

600m bolted route on rough rock up the NW-face of Sass Pordoi (2950m). Some holds were wet, especially pitch 5 and 7 felt like canyoning...but the rock was sticky enough to squeeze our way up! The climbing is mainly steep and tiring (40-50m pitches); the bolts are far and just some mid-sized Cams and kevlar threads turned out to be useful. Welcome to the Dolomites!!

We shared some belays with two cool Tyrolers, Peter and Martin and had a lot of fun! The crux pitches are pitch 7 (6c+, 40m, overhanging, biiig holds and fairly runout, the '+' stands for the extra water ;o) and pitch 11 (7a, 40m, crimps and sideholds).

 

Partner:

Harald Pfüller

 

Gear:

 - 15 DMM Phantom Quickdraws
 - DMM Dragon Cams No. 0-3
 - kevlar and nylon threads

 

Time:

Walk-in: 40 min-climbing 8h- Bier, Skiwasser & Strudel at Rifugio Forcella Pordoi 30 min- descent 1,5h

 

Topo:

see planetmountain

Cheerleaders on the Sellapass.
Cheerleaders on the Sellapass.

Amoklauf, Cansla, Traumpfeiler, 7b, 150m

200m alpine sport climbing on sticky, light grey rock. Excellent rock quality, good protection (10mm bolts), Ceüse-like climbing on pockets and flared cavitie! Sharp and unchalked rock , the rout meanders up 7 quite hard and technical pitches. Slab climbing skilles are required as well as holding onto small crimps and slopers. 

Well-our day started with a cheerleading session for the 26. Dolomiten-Mathon, a classic for 9000 cyclistst from Garder Tal to Corvara.The Sellapass was closed so we ejoyed watching active sports and passive sports and....

 

Partner:

Harald Pfüller

 

Gear:

15 DMM Phantome Quickdraws

 

Time:

Walk-in 5 min- climbing+abseiling 6h

 

Topo:

see planetmountain

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Kommentare: 1
  • #1

    Ilona (Montag, 22 Oktober 2012)

    This blog is good