“Winter climbing in the High Tatras is something unusual, something between Alps and Scotland” stated Martin, our friend from Slovakia.
He basically lured us to High Tatras promising world class winter-climbing! We found a lot of climbing but “winter” climbing seems to be a loose concept within Europe!
The main North Face close to Chata Pri Zelenom Plese is Malý Kežmarský štít; a 900 m monument of more or less loose rock. No bolts, just classic trad lines and dry conditions. All routes are easily accessible from the hut in 30 to 90 minutes.
We had one week of excellent weather, just our hike-in day turned out to be very windy, snowy and untracked with fresh snow: it took us more than 4h to reach the hut and we felt super exhausted carrying big packs. Otherwise its a nice walk in or ski in and out!
High Tatras are great. Everything that we think has been lost in the Alps you will find in the High Tatras. Excellent routes in an historic place with affordable accomodations. There is a very small but super psyched crowd of climbers. Even though there arent bolted belays and you might end up sketching yourself up a tricky mixed terrain hanging onto bits of tussockgras with your ice axe and taking your gloves off to crimp the hell out of a frozen hold with the last hammered piton meteres beneath you... you will enjoy it!
Routes Data Base:
- L’avý Y (V)
- Škótska Anabáza M4+
- L’ady pod Svišt’ovkou (WI II 3-4)
- Fun Gully (M3?)
- Hrana Weberovky (V)
- Kolový Štít (2418 m)
Malý Kežmarský štít is the place for good mixed climbing.
There are other valles close by e.g. Male studena dolina in which ice climbing and classic mountaineering stand out.
Get there: go by bus or train to porad. its not worth to take the car (far and way more
- Bus from Nürnberg à Poprad (Slovakia) ca. 13h
- Bus from Poprad to Tatr, Lomnica, get off at “Bela Voda” (30min)
- From Béla Voda hike to Chata pri Zelenom Plese 1551m (yellow marks)
- 2x60m ropes
- crampons, ice axes, some ice screws
- nuts, dubble set of cams, PITONS!
- slings, some cord for belays
- 2 Helmets
- do not bring schnaps, there will be plenty already there....