Phoenix (5.13a), © Johannes Ingrisch
Phoenix (5.13a), © Johannes Ingrisch

The route Phoenix is a stunning 30m overhanging hand- and finger crack (first 5.13 in the world established in 1977 by Ray Jardin). It took me only two days to climb it and I was asked, how it was to be the “other” Alex in Yosemite Valley (beside Alex Honold who free soloed Phoenix in summer 2011)! Hope I can extend my lifetime on wearing a harness and placing gear …

Fish  Crack (5.12b), © Johannes Ingrisch
Fish Crack (5.12b), © Johannes Ingrisch

The first 5.12 in Yosemite Valley was a tiny finger crack called Fish Crack in the Cascade Falls area. It was first ascended by Henry Barber in 1975. It took me tree attempts to free the 40m route with a balancy layback crux at the end!